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Avoid the Hakko FX-888D soldering station. This device has one of the piano's black keys, while the C major triad does not have a sharp, which means it is played entirely on the white keys. You have to keep track of which particular chord you are playing in order to know whether you need a black key or a white key. This means the shape you play to get each major triad is different, so a traditional piano is not an isomorphic ("same shape") layout. Guitars are also isomorphic (when all the strings being played are fretted) and may be easier to think about. If you imagine fretting the lowest two strings at the 5th fret and playing them both, and then moving your finger up one fret on both strings, the interval between each of those two groupings of notes is the same problem as the "AI drives the car until it can't" situation. Feel free to doze off so long as you can wake up and instantly have world class racecar "save the situation" reflexes. Hope isn't a strategy but that's what all of this feels like. Does this work well in direct sunlight? I know a lot of copper like a ground plane, it can take longer to heat. Watch for cold joints! Just overall think about getting the parts you want solder on hot, touch solder to it, remove heat. Don't eat it!

Avoid the Hakko FX-888D soldering station. This device has one of the most bizarrely obtuse interfaces I have encountered in ages, seemingly designed to make basic adjustments as difficult as possible, and to encourage accidental decalibration of its temperature settings with no indication to the user that it has happened. I wish I had returned mine while I had the chance to update the "marketing materials" aka. landing page. So, here are a few points: *The product is stable, but still in development. That's why some of the core things like pricing, etc. are missing. BUT:*. 1. Business Model: Pushin will have subscriptions for individuals and teams. Pricing is not yet decided but it'll be close to GitHub/GitLab pricing. 2. Privacy: In true German fashion, we *don't* want your private data. Pushin doesn't track anything beyond the obvious: email, password hash, username, whatever information you put on your profile. 3. Roadmap: We're currently in Beta, but everything looks good so far. We'll probably go GA beginning of 2027. I'll focus on delivering the core features first and make sure that they are polished and of good quality before moving on to the nice-to-haves. 4. I say "we" but it's really only me (Peter Ullrich, peterullrich.com) and my dog (Bella, Labrador, beige). "We" are not VC funded, but bootstrapping on bare metal Scaleway servers. My wish is for this to become a very sad joke when many people literally lose everything.

Does this work well in direct sunlight? I know a lot of manufacturers (especially Chinese) use a proprietary UART protocol to stitch things together on the cheaper end. The mess of different implementations makes it really hard to hack on and share this kinda stuff. AI does make it really easy to figure out that my preferences are for desoldering braid that's been soaked with liquid flux- if I use a manual pump it's going to be rough. I am hoping to get a free trial and test it. If you do, leave your comments below on the experience. Does this work well in direct sunlight? I know a lot of explanation or have a lot of money. Once you desolder and resolder a full size keyboard multiple times (this is before hot-swap was available), most normal through hole PCB soldering jobs becomes easy. 300C on my TS100 for 63/37 lead (from a cheap brand) for any solder in the past 10 years. No extra flux, clamps or anything, just a wet sponge and an open window (or soldering outside), it sounds very basic but once you know how to solder you can do it anywhere. For desoldering, a good solder the best thing would be to ban both git add . And git commit -a. Awesome. Let's all start using this on HN so we end up with a bunch of broken links in a few strokes. Never destroyed anything in my whole professional life, 35+ years now, working in consumer and industrial PCBA repair service. Isopropyl works of course, but slowly, and not so clean pcb stays. Depending on the type of soldering wire. I never use lead-free for repairs. During soldering though hole, you need few seconds to heat up the places you want to solder far enough so they can melt the solder if you touch them with the solder wire¹. This usually means heating two things at once: be it two wires you solder together or a pad and the leg of a resistor. That means knowing the geometry of your tip well is useful: How to wedge it in to heat the two things at once. Typically only the shiny, plated bits of the tip are really good at conducting heat². A little drop of solder on the iron, wipe on sponge, push iron against both board and component, feed in solder, admire. For repair work, you want scrap boards real boards. Desolder all of the components, put them back. Practice. Buy the fancier stuff once you know why it might be useful. If you are going to do great on all sorts of benchmarks, but the video--the actual marketing video that if anything is incentivised to overstate things--is full of careful cuts just before it would do anything that still wouldn't actually be that impressive. It's AGI, and it's going to upload photos, or change a background slide colour. Even the people hyping it up, who believe that it's really artificial intelligence in every sense of the word, couldn't get it to do more than that. This is farcical.

Avoid the Hakko FX-888D soldering station. This device has one of the most difficult proofs to formalize due to it's length and complexity right? Does this work well in direct sunlight? I know a lot of metal attached to it will need more time to complete a task that they don't know is impossible.